Do Brake Pads Need a Break-in Period? A Car Owner's Real-World Experience
Previously, I was quite conservative in my choice of brake pads, typically sticking with OEM parts. This was the case for my relative's 2012 Skoda Octavia and my sister's 2018 BMW 3 Series.
Around 2018, when the Octavia was still with me and had passed 90,000 kilometers, I noticed the brake pads were getting low. During a routine service at the dealership, I proactively purchased a set of pads to have on hand. Back then, I enjoyed tinkering and had accumulated a set of tools that allowed me to handle brake pad replacements myself.
The replacement process is straightforward: remove the old pads, use a tool to retract the caliper pistons, install the new pads, and reassemble. It's not difficult. For a more thorough job, you can remove the caliper slide pins, apply some grease, and reinstall them.
Most common passenger cars use floating calipers. The caliper moves slightly back and forth when clamping the rotor—this is the "floating" action. The slide pins are the pivots for this movement. They have internal threads and a smooth outer surface, and they experience wear during caliper operation.
To prevent dry friction, they are coated with lubricating grease. Therefore, periodic maintenance lubrication becomes necessary. This "period" is typically quite long. Based on my experience, around every 5 years, or when replacing brake pads, it's sufficient to simply remove, clean, and relubricate these slide pins. Under normal circumstances, just check that the external rubber boots aren't torn or damaged. On vehicles that have gone too long without this maintenance, issues like pulling during braking or increased rolling resistance when coasting can occur, necessitating a brake system inspection. The slide pins are often the first suspects. If they are bent, corroded, or seized, they can severely impact braking performance.
The pad replacement itself was uneventful. What stood out to me was a detail on the packaging: the manufacturer was listed as "Federal-Mogul Friction Products Co., Ltd." I hadn't heard of this company before. Searching on online marketplaces yielded no products from them. Compared to other well-known brake brands, they seemed incredibly low-profile. Further research revealed it was actually a major, behind-the-scenes American automotive components supplier. Truly a case of "hidden in plain sight."
Fast forward to 2023. During a service for my sister's nearly 5-year-old 3 Series, she was told the brake pads were getting low. Combined with various other recommended services, the estimate shocked her, coming to over 13,000 RMB. She immediately called me, asking (in the spirit of Han dynasty emperor Liu Bang), "What shall we do about it?"
My suggestion was to replace the fuel filter and spark plugs, spending around a thousand RMB this time, and I would handle the rest. Showing up at the dealership and consuming their free lunch and coffee without spending anything felt awkward. The principle is: save where you can, spend where you must.
Although her car was only 5 years old with 50,000 km, frequent city driving meant heavy brake use. Despite the low mileage, the pads had worn considerably. So, I began sourcing brake pads. After comparing many sellers, I settled on one claiming to sell OEM parts, purchasing a full set of front and rear pads for around 500 RMB.
Upon arrival, the parts had all the proper markings and codes, but no visible manufacturer name—just part numbers. It was impossible to tell if they were genuine. Compared to the dealership's quote of 2,700 RMB, I had little reason not to try them. The seller offered installation and after-sales service, so I figured I could hassle them if there were issues.
During installation, I again asked the mechanic to service the slide pins. However, shops on platforms like Tmall don't provide free services. He recommended a "brake system maintenance package" including wheel/brake dust cleaning, hub rust removal, slide pin lubrication, threadlocker, etc. The parts cost 40 RMB, labor 120 RMB. I opted for it. Since brakes are only touched every five years or so, it seemed worth it.
When the old pads came off, I observed they likely had another 10,000 km left in them. Replacing them now was a bit wasteful—a sign of my inexperience. These pads had wear sensors. When worn down, a dashboard warning light would illuminate, and even then, you could drive a few thousand kilometers before they were completely gone. For systems without sensors, the pads have a small metal tab. When the pad material is nearly gone, this tab contacts the rotor, producing a sharp metallic screech when braking—the audible warning. Whether by light or sound, waiting for the warning allows you to fully utilize the pads.
After the replacement, a test drive revealed a noticeably softer brake pedal feel. The previously responsive brakes now felt duller, requiring more pedal pressure for the same stopping power. I contacted the seller. He explained that new brake pads require a break-in period of about 800 to 1,000 kilometers. He confidently assured me, offering a full refund if any issues arose. With that guarantee, I couldn't say much more—time would tell. I instructed my sister to apply a bit more pressure when braking for a while, as the system needed to break in.
A month later, visiting her, I test-drove the car again. The braking performance had indeed improved significantly, nearly matching the feel before the replacement. The seller was right.
Later, I reflected on what this "break-in" meant. I had installed new pads, but the original rotors remained untouched. The rotor surface has visible circular machining marks/micro-grooves. Under magnification, the surface is uneven. Old pads, worn over time, develop a surface contour that perfectly matches the rotor's. New pads have a flat, uniform surface. When mated with the used rotor, the initial contact area is reduced. This decreases friction, requiring more hydraulic pressure for the same braking force. As the new pads and old rotor wear together over time, the pad surface conforms to the rotor's pattern (the pads, being softer, adapt). This increases the contact area, restoring braking performance.
Based on this principle, we can summarize: If you install new rotors and new pads, both surfaces start flat and mate directly, so optimal performance is nearly immediate, with minimal break-in needed. However, with new rotors and old pads or (as in my case) old rotors and new pads, the reduced initial contact area necessitates a break-in period to reach optimal performance.
That's my analysis of the brake pad/rotor break-in process.
It's been over two years now, and my sister hasn't reported any brake issues—no shaking, noise, etc. These pads seem to be holding up well. While I can't confirm if they're truly OEM, based on performance, I'll consider them as such. It seems there are skilled players in the aftermarket. If they have channels to source genuine OEM parts, that's impressive. If they're producing high-quality replicas, it shows some manufacturers have advanced imitation technology. Either way, it commands a degree of respect.